Orange is one of Australia's newest and most exciting wine regions. Initial planting of vines on a commercial level began in 1983 with Bloodwood's Stephen and Rhonda Doyle breaking ground on Griffin Road, west of the township.
The elevation, aspect and soils quickly made the region a magnet for winegrowers. Over the ensuing forty odd years, the region has expanded, attracting winegrowers from across Australia. The region is home to over 80 vineyards showcased by more than 30 cellar doors. The beauty of this relatively small region is that the winemakers, growers and their families will be the people welcoming you to their wineries.
The region sits at 600m above sea level, around the extinct volcano Mount Canobolas (Gaanha-Bula). Mount Canobolas rises to an impressive 1100m, where growing grapes is marginal, thus creating wines of great fruit purity, structure and natural acidity. These are wines built to last. Orange Region Chardonnays with 20 years cellaring are still showing freshness and complexity.
If you enjoy zesty whites, the region is home to some of the best Pinot Grigios, Rieslings and Sauvignon Blanc. The Rieslings from Bloodwood, ChaLou and Rikard are worth seeking out for their crispness, flavour profile and texture.
The region's sparkling wines have created waves on the wine scene. Swift Sparkling has accumulated a 'pool room' full of wine trophies, whilst Colmar Estate, Highland Heritage, Logan and, more recently, Slow Wine Co have released praiseworthy examples. The high elevation and natural affinity for Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay show the exciting potential for these styles.
If Chardonnay is a preference, Orange is a veritable playground. Tom Ward's Swinging Bridge is a focus point for this variety, making a number of examples from his perfectly placed vineyards. Canobolas Wines, established in the early 1980s as Canobolas Smith, has seen a new energy, with Jonathan Mattick guiding his vines to new heights. Whilst using his cellared wines as a guide, his new Chardonnays are creating new benchmarks; wines that will live for decades, and have other wine regions wishing they were more orange.
Other Chardonnays to look out for include Angullong 'Fossil Hill', one of the best value offerings in the region. Taste the new Chardonnay from Byrne Farm and you'll be sold. Jeff Byrne has a wealth of winegrowing experience, having crafted many a wine in the Hunter Valley. Looking for new challenges, he and his family moved to Orange and have firmly established their Byrne Farm brand as one to watch. Also worth tasting are the Slow Wine Co, Rikard, Patina (rich with butteriness and oak — stunning), and HOOSEGG.
Cellaring potential always leans toward reds. In the Orange region, the wines are medium weight, but with lovely structure and longevity. Whilst Pinot and Gamay are finding their footing, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Shiraz are well established. Some of these wines from the 2010s are still bright and have been rewarded by time in the cellar. The current release wines from Canobolas, HOOSEGG and Brangayne are worth finding. The wines from Patina are only released with time in the cellar, so would be a good starting point to see the quality that can be achieved with patience.
For those looking to ignite a new vinous passion, try the Mediterranean varieties from Angullong. The vineyard sits at 600m and ripens these varieties particularly well. Barbera, Montepulciano and Sangiovese are medium-bodied, full-flavoured varietal expressions that are well suited to the likes of antipasti and outdoor dining.
The Orange Wine Region is fast becoming a destination for those with a love of great local food and wine. With a range of festivals that focus on these (Orange FOOD Week and Orange Wine Festival), the region will continue to attract more winemakers and chefs, firmly establishing it as one of Australia's most exciting destinations.
Photo: Angullong Vineyard